This trip was turning out to be one long, stressful and frustrating wait rather than the mountain adventure promised by the very glossy and glamorous World Expeditions website.
It was a matter of “will we, won’t we” get to Lukla on time to start walking and, as it turned out, it was mostly “won’t we”.
Oh well, patience is a virtue…one that I rarely display! Maybe there are some key learnings for me here?
Days: 3-4
Dates: From Friday, 4 October to Saturday, 5 October 2024.
From: Kathmandu To: Ramechap
Daily Km: 0km Walking Time: 0hrs
Progress: 0km
Ascent: 0m Descent: 0m
Weather: Cloudy and hot.
Terrain: Twisting, turning dirt roads way, way, way up to the very top of towering mountains and then way, way, way back down again.
Stayed At: World Expeditions campsite
General Comments:
- Like all good tour group members, we were all bang on time meeting in the hotel foyer at 430am! I think most of us had been awake way too early or barely asleep. We were all getting stressed about how this adventure was panning out and none of us was looking forward to being cooped up in a 10-seater minibus for the best part of eight hours. But what could we do other than go with the flow? I kept telling myself that we were in a Third World country and, from previous experience, normal plans rarely run normally in those lands.
- The good news is that 500am is the perfect time of day to get out of Kathmandu. The traffic is quiet and sparse as people make their sleepy way to work.
- The fun and games really started when we left the outskirts of the city and hit the dirt roads…or what was left of the dirt roads after the landslides and flooding had finished with them. In many places, an excavator had simply pushed a single one-vehicle-wide track through the debris, leaving great mountains of mud, rocks, and sloppy dirt on the sides of the track…that’s if there were any tracksides remaining.
- This single vehicle track didn’t stop public buses, loaded to the rooftops with passengers, beeping at us very loudly and passing on blind corners or when there was no actual road visible! Our minibus was noisy with exclamations, the odd expletive and much nervous laughter as trucks, cars, buses and motorbikes all left us in their muddy wake. It seems that road rules are optional in Nepal and drivers’ licences non-existent.
- In some places the traffic came to a complete stop for about 25minutes with a gridlock involving 20-30 trucks, buses and cars. It took quite the negotiation skills to encourage both directions of traffic, sometimes with only 10cm between vehicles, to reverse up a little, allow a vehicle to get past and unblock the bottleneck.
- So, after 10hours of braking, swerving, sliding and bumping along (often our minibus bottomed out on large boulders) we finally completed the 160km road trip to Ramechap, Yes, you read that correctly – 10hours to cover 160km! Our driver rarely got out of second gear the whole way.
- The minibus dropped us at Ramechap airport and, while we tried to be positive, we held out little hope that we would catch a late flight to Lukla.
- More “will we, won’t we” ensued, but finally we (and about 300 other would-be Everest Base Camp hikers) realised no one was flying out of Ramechap that evening.
- Saturday morning rolled around way too quickly as we had to be up very early to catch our flight to Lukla. Unfortunately, yesterday’s 300 other would-be hikers also had the same plan and the airport was pure, and simple chaos.
- Independent hikers, hiking groups, guides, airport ‘security’, minibus drivers, tuk tuk drivers, jeep drivers, and general hangers-on all crowded into a space the size of your average double garage.
- It’s a crack up of a place – ‘security gates’ to the runway left wide open, overgrown lawns, leaning fences, and goats grazing next to the Arrivals area. The Air Traffic Control Tower did not instil confidence with its mould, peeling paint, and an array of spaghetti-like wires cascading from every surface.
- You guessed it. Despite waiting all day, we went nowhere fast! Another night in the thriving metropolis of Ramechap awaited us. Believe me when I say there is nothing in Ramechap to see or do. Thank goodness most of us had packed a book or two to while away the hours.
Highlights & Tips:
- Despite sitting in a minibus for 10hrs (or any hours for that matter) being in my top three of most despised things ever, we did get to see some amazing scenery. We were moving so slowly through the landscape you could really focus on the people, places and animals. It generated much wonder and quite a bit of amusement.
- This long, long, long trip also gave us an opportunity to bond as a group and we developed a shared sense of, if not adventure, then at least endurance!
- As we were to experience a lot over the next few weeks, World Expeditions have some great camp set-ups. At Ramechap, our first nights under canvas on this trip, the tents were large and new. Each tent is lined to prevent condensation, has two stretcher-type beds with mattresses and pillows, and a space for duffel bags.
- This camp also had simple showers, ‘proper’ toilets and an air-conditioned Common/dining area with WIFI. Quite luxurious really even though we would have preferred NOT to be there!
Maybe tomorrow will be our day?
#travelinspo #EverestBaseCamp #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #Nepal #Kathmandu #WorldExpeditions # epicadventures #controlledchaos #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #exoticdestinations #urbancacophony #overseastravel #FirstWorldProblems #travelplanning #hikingadventures #Ramechap #roadtrips
Life...one big adventure 
My goodness. Much respect to you! Glad you came out of it well on the other side!! 😊
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sometimes I wondered whether we would get there in one piece, but I just hoped for the best! Not something I care to repeat anytime soon! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Good grief Mel! This is the journey from hell. I do hope it’s all worth it, but it does make for a great read.
LikeLiked by 2 people
I am sure it is a karma-thing with me and minibuses. The more I try to avoid them, the more they hone in on me.🙃😜
LikeLiked by 2 people
I promise I will never-ever complain about our potholed roads here in South Africa again! My goodness Mel … this trip has properly tested your patience and endurance … even without starting the big walk. But if you want adventure, you got it 100%!!
LikeLiked by 2 people
Yes, it’s always a case of ‘be careful what you wish for ‘. 🤣🙃
LikeLiked by 2 people
Much respect for enduring such an ordeal! Looks like it is completely impossible to travel in Nepal and not experience some of the bumpiest, roughest roads you will ever come across. Unfortunately, bad infrastructure is inevitable in a poor, developing country and is exacerbated in the case of Nepal due to its dysfunctional government and mountainous terrain. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
It is all doable over there, you just need a lot of patience. 😊 Actually, it was interesting how many times the locals told us that everyone in their government is corrupt. Maybe that is where all the road repair money went?
LikeLike
Maybe I missed it, why didn’t you fly from Kathmandu? Is it just getting too busy?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes, apparently the majority of hikers have to fly from Ramechap now, unless you can afford the helicopter flight direct from Kathmandu. I understand there are no direct plane flights anymore.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh no! Thank goodness we went when we did! Maggie
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yep!
LikeLike
Oh my! I’m reading these posts out loud to the Husband (who harbors a desire to climb to Everest Basecamp, even though he otherwise prioritizes cycling over hiking) and it’s fair to say you are getting lots of oohs, eeks, and cringes here in Minnesota. An entertainingly stressful read, Mel!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Don’t let me put The Husband off. It is an amazing thing to do, but not for the faint-hearted. It certainly opened my eyes to a whole lot of things and knocked me way out of my comfort zone. That has to be a good thing, right? 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
As long as you live to tell the tale, yes, it’s a good thing. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Words fail me. Those ‘roads’ scare me to death. Obviously you didn’t have to travel back the way you came, I can’t see anything getting along THAT road. And obviously you survived the trip and are now at home. What an adventure. Can’t wait for the next instalment.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Actually, we did have to head back to Kathmandu on the same road and thankfully they had made some road repairs in the interim. When it’s the only way to return (without a lot of hassle), we just had to go with the flow…yet again. 🙂
LikeLike
Yep, sitting on a bus for 10hrs driving through a third world country would be nightmarish. You survived and you’ll be regaling this for years to come, worth every bump, wasn’t it, Mel 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Definitely! I am still thinking about it all, almost every day.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I bet you are.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Are you on a World Tours package?
LikeLiked by 1 person
World Expeditions – an Australian company which started life as Australian Himilayan Expeditions (I think). One of the first tourism operators taking people to Everest Base Camp.
LikeLike
OMG, your adventure started way before it should. Glad you made it through, to the end! xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oooo, Yes. Every day I woke up and thought “I wonder what today will bring?” 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
.. another big adventure🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Definitely! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
You’re bringing back memories of when we trekked in the Annapurnas back in 2013. Not surprised to hear roads and traffic conditions haven’t altered at all. Looking forward to reading more once you actually start trekking. Cheers, Mark
LikeLiked by 1 person
BTW we travelled with Peregrine Adventures, now owned by Intrepid. Doesn’t matter much who you go with as the conditions are the same for all.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yep, we were all in the same boat. All trying to head in the same direction at exactly the same pace. Nowhere fast! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks, Mark. Happy to have you along for the journey. Nepal is certainly a unique place to travel. 🙂
LikeLike
Oh Mel, this looks so stressful. Impatient, organised me would really struggle with it. It’s crazy all you’re trying to do is get to the start of your adventure! 😧
LikeLiked by 1 person
It really tested my patience too, but it did come good eventually. 🙂
LikeLike
We’ve been on some bad roads in third world countries but even by those standards this is pretty awful! Glad you made it OK and retained your sense of adventure 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
There were many times I just had to close my eyes and hope for the best. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh gosh. Things have not gotten better. I too am not great with patience or with my travel plans not going the way I want them to. I’m not sure I would have handled this situation as calmly as you did. Hopefully tomorrow will be the lucky day for getting to Lukla. Off to find out…
LikeLiked by 1 person
🙃😁😊 – the chaos continues! Now, just different chaos! At least this trip is delivering variety!
LikeLiked by 1 person
scary to see that road !
LikeLiked by 1 person
Even scarier driving on it! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
I am sure it was scary !!! But you survived it !
LikeLiked by 1 person
I did! Sometimes I wondered, but I got out of bed every morning and did it all over again. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Fair play to you. Not sure I could handle that. I’m hoping from future posts that you do indeed make it. Some beautiful scenic shots though and I’m sure you really got to know the people in your group.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I am trying to learn to ‘go with the flow’…it’s a work in progress! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
That’s all you can do really. As long as you’re healthy and well, that’s all that matters.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Truth!
LikeLiked by 1 person