Way back at the beginning of this year I shared our plans for this year’s BIG (and slightly scary) adventure in Nepal, taking the scenic route to Everest Base Camp. Well, the months flew by, bags were packed, weighed, unloaded and repacked, and training was planned and completed. Only time would tell that the training was insufficient for what we were attempting, but that is a story for a later post.
For now, I will lull you into a false sense of security as we navigate planes, buses, and automobiles to land in colourful, chaotic Kathmandu.
Days: 0-2
Dates: From Tuesday, 1 October to Thursday, 3 October 2024.
From: Kathmandu To: Kathmandu
Daily Km: 0km Walking Time: 0hrs
Progress: 0km
Ascent: 0m Descent: 0m
Weather: Hot and humid.
Terrain: Urban, dodgy footpaths, crazy, loud traffic. Stepping over electrical wiring in a Work Health & Safety nightmare! 😊
Stayed At: Radisson Hotel
General Comments:
- Why is it that with absolutely every overseas trip I have been privileged to take, I simply fall onto the plane a gibbering and exhausted mess? Every single time I promise myself that this time it will be different and it never is! There always seems to be a million last minute things to attend to, clients asking me start new projects (NOT going to happen), plants to water and documents to check. First World Problem, I know and perhaps next time I will be more under control…perhaps.
- The lead up to this trip was especially stressful as Malaysian Airlines cancelled ALL our flights and rescheduled us (with zero consultation) on inconvenient or simply impossible flights. I will never, never, ever fly with Malaysian Airlines again. You have been warned!! Yes, another First World Problem.
- After a trip half way around the World (I’m not kidding), we finally made our way back to Nepal and Kathmandu’s chaotic Tribhuvan International Airport. I thought I had done the right thing completing all our visa paperwork online before leaving Australia which meant that we would just have to pay the fee on arrival and through security we would swan. Wrong!
- We queued, presented ourselves to Border Security. Handing over all our paperwork and passports, the man there asked if we had paid the visa fee. I responded saying that I was here to pay it now. His response was “No, you need to go to that counter over there, pay the fee and then come back”.
- We queued at the Payment Counter and the man there said “No, you have the wrong visa application form – you need to get a new one from that counter over there”.
- We queued at the Application counter to fill out the ‘correct’ form which was exactly the same as the form I had filled out online before leaving Australia.
- We queued again at the Payment Counter and there was yet more kerfuffle over how they wanted us to pay.
- Finally, we queued again at Border Security and with a few stamps, thumps and signatures we had officially arrived in Nepal. Phew!
- We purposefully arrived a day early to give us a spare day to unwind and explore a little. If you want a dose of chaos and culture, Kathmandu is the place to be. I had been in Nepal seven years earlier so I knew what to expect, but it is still a stunning contrast to our ordinary, sedate and controlled lives.
- After fortifying ourselves with a substantial hotel breakfast, we set off on foot into the cultural heart of Kathmandu’s Harman-Dhoka Durbar Square. As with many other large Asian cities, Kathmandu is a fabulous blend of the old and the new. I was pleased to see that the majority of temples and buildings had been restored after the devastating earthquake of 2015.
- Numerous entrepreneurial guides pounced on us as we purchased our entrance tickets to the Square. Being fairly jetlagged and already slightly boggled by the sensory input, I was happy just to wander and read the brochure.
- Most of the pagoda-style temples and palaces were constructed between the 12th-18th centuries. It was wonderful to stroll the streets of this living museum and see people still praying in the temples, keeping their culture alive, and relevant.
- From there we found our way, somewhat miraculously, through the crowded and chaotic streets to the Thamel district – the main tourist hub in Kathmandu. Picture narrow streets lined with endless stores selling ‘genuine’ branded hiking gear and every type of tourist trinket known to man. It was a fun place to be, but with the heat and humidity, noise, dust, and jetlag – we soon ran out of puff and returned to the sanctuary of the hotel.
- Our briefing that afternoon was more controlled chaos with no confirmed plans about whether we would be officially starting our tour on schedule, as planned the next day. Our trip notes said we could be flying to Lukla direct from Kathmandu. On the ground, in country, it seemed the more probable way to get to Lukla was to drive to a one-horse town called Ramechap and then take a short flight from there to Lukla.
- As it turned out, the recent floods in the Kathmandu Valley had severely damaged numerous major roads, including the main one connecting to Ramechap and we would end up with an extra day in Kathmandu. This gave us another opportunity to unpack, repack, sort and worry some more about how to get our main duffel bags down to a maximum of 10kg and 5kg for our daypacks. Challenge accepted!
Highlights & Tips:
- After 7.5hrs on hold on the telephone and much assertive negotiation with Malaysian Airlines, I managed to get us on a Qatar Airways flight to Kathmandu. Yes, it meant an additional seven hours flying westwards only to fly another 4.5hrs north-eastwards, but I was way more confident in the quality and reliability of Qatar Airways than Malaysian. Qatar Airways was pretty much faultless.
- Our tour group was small – only seven people – and a nice bunch. That augurs well for a successful and enjoyable trip.
- Even though we were finally advised that we had to meet in the foyer at 430am the next morning for an 8-hour mini-bus ride to Ramechap, we were also advised that our luggage allowance was actually a total of 20kg, not 15kg! Phew! Back to sorting and repacking.
#travelinspo #EverestBaseCamp #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #Nepal #Kathmandu #WorldExpeditions # epicadventures #controlledchaos #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #exoticdestinations #urbancacophony #overseastravel #FirstWorldProblems #travelplanning #hikingadventures #temples #buddhisttemples
Life...one big adventure 
Im so looking forward to vicariously going to base camp through your blog.
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Thanks for joining the adventure. It was absolutely spectacular!
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Kathmandu looks the way I remember it (I was there in 1982). Enjoy your trek to base camp!
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WOW! It would have been amazing to be in Kathmandu way back then. I was surprised how much cleaner it was than when I was there 7 years ago – still loud and crazy, but clean. 🙂
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What is there to say but ‘good luck, darlin!’ It can only get better?
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Thanks, Jo. It was a wild experience! More to come!
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I’ve really enjoyed reading about this trip already. Surely it can’t get any worse 😀
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Ummmmmmm….. 🙂
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🤨
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Great photos, Mel, and an interesting start. But as I read, I couldn’t get that sentence from the first paragraph out of my head – the one about your training being insufficient. Both the Husband and I are worryingly curious about exactly what you mean by that (it could go one of two ways), so we are eagerly awaiting your future posts and hoping for the best. Oh, and you’ve added another airline to our Never Fly list. (Based on numerous horror stories from various people, Air Canada is already on it.)
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‘Interesting’ is a great way to describe this whole trip! 🙂 It pushed me way, way, way out of my comfort zone. More to come…
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Yep, all sounds about right😊 Hope you were able to enjoy it once you got to Lukla. Maggie
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Yes, there were a LOT of people in the same boat as us and even more horror stories to tell… Hope you enjoyed the photos of the momos at The French Bakery – it was too hot for soup. 🙂
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Ohhh, I missed it, but just looked now. Jealous!!! Maggie
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Bon appetit!
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Sounds interesting Mel! Hope the trekking went well and I’m looking forward to your posts 😀
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It will probably be a bit tame for you Jim, but I hope it does bring back some happy memories.
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What matters is that you enjoyed it Mel 😀 and it already has brought back memories of the rather antiquated bureaucracy 😀
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‘Enjoy’ might be too strong a word, but it was spectacular, and the bureaucracy has not changed a jot!
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All the best for the beginning of the epic trek. The dodgy wiring aside the walk around the square had it’s highlights.
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It sure did. I just love the chaos of these cities. They are so vibrant and different!
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Enjoy the trip!
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I did my best. 🙂
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Kathmandu looks like a real assault on the senses (in a good way!). Looking forward to reading more about your trip 🙂
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It is definitely that. So much input!! 🙂
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Another epic adventure for you Mel, looking forward to hear more🥰
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It surely was epic! And there is way more to come…
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Just love the electrical wires in the photos!! Repeated throughout Asian countries….
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Yep, they are a wonder of Asia!
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I’ve been waiting a long time for these posts! Those wires must be an electrician’s nightmare! Your photos captured the chaos wonderfully (to be honest, I’m glad I see it through your lens and am not there myself). I’m a bit tired after reading just your first post … and I haven’t even started walking with you yet!
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There is more chaos to come, but it is nothing if not entertaining!😊😁
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I’ve been hanging out to hear about this one Mel! It already sounds like quite the adventure, but the most important thing is that you’re home safe and sound!
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It was a spectacular adventure overall AND SO good to come home! More to come… x
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Your photos perfectly illustrate the chaos of Kathmandu, a city I shall never visit and I am very grateful that you and your hubby are taking me there from the comfort of my armchair! Your experience with the flights is one of the reasons why I am put off flying again. Late changes, delays, problems with luggage, cancellations…. I much prefer being in control of my own travel arrangements (i.e. my car) even though it does limit where I go!
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I try to keep it in perspective (First World Problems and all that) and remember that it is a privilege to do what I do. Sometimes though, I wish it was all a bit more straight-forward and stress-free! All part of the adventure I guess.
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Wow! What an adventure. Sounds like one of those trips that is more than challenging as it is taking place but will be worth its weight in gold later in character-building experiences and stories you can tell.
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Exactly! You nailed it. Thanks for following along…
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I’m looking forward to following this adventure! Meanwhile thank you for taking me back, virtually, to Kathmandu, a city I loved! We stayed in Thamel and I smiled at your mention of ‘genuine’ branded hiking gear, as we both bought ‘North Face’ hats for £3 each – such good copies that anyone would be fooled!
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It is a wonderful city so full of contrast – rampant commercialism right next door to a stupa! 🙂 I love it. Have a good day
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Oh gosh, I’m very behind, so apologies for the incoming barrage of comments. What a chaotic and stressful start to your trip. That sounds like a lot to manage on a good day, let alone while in a different country and jetlagged.
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The days flew by, the stress continued…just different stresses!🤣🙃😁
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As I spent less time on WordPress in November, I am behind with your story/travel. Wow. I wonder where you find time to write it all !!Thanks for sharing and all the pics taken…. 😉
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I couldn’t possibly have written it all out on the track, but I am enjoying the reminiscing now that I am in the comfort of my home. 🙂
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Of course, and this is what is great about any trips. 3 ways to enjoy it. Prep, the actual adventure and looking back with photo/writing/sharing. Thanks again.
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My pleasure and thank you for taking the time to read and comment. It’s much appreciated.
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I’m looking forward to reading all these posts. Fantastic photos and love the colours in Nepal. I’m glad you advised about Malaysian Airlines, that sounds terrible for you.
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Nepal is a wonderful country and Kathmandu a vibrant city. All definitely worth a visit. Thanks
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Making a mental note not to fly with Malaysia Airlines any time soon! It’s probably good you had that extra day in Kathmandu to get a little settled before the adventure began!
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True. Their lack of customer service still makes me cranky!
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