Despite my misgivings and uncertainty that I was really cut out for this trek, for some reason, quitting just didn’t seem to be an option. If I just swallowed my pride and was content to plod along way at the back of the pack, then maybe I could do this thing after all.
Day: 7
Date: Tuesday, 8 October 2024.
From: Namche (3,440m) To: Kyangjuma (3,550m)
Daily Km: 6.9km Walking Time: 4h13m
Progress: 30.4km
Ascent: 437m Descent: 281m
Weather: Clear and warm with a cooling breeze.
Terrain: An absolutely heartbreaking ascent to start the day and then we actually had some level stretches.
Stayed At: World Expeditions camp
General Comments:
- By now we are taking a full Diamox tablet (rather than a half) morning and night, and that is helping with the headaches. It seems that most of us are struggling to get to sleep at night and our pulses are racing even as we lie in bed trying to drop off to sleep. I wonder how long it takes to acclimatise?
- Today we would be heading away from the main Everest Base Camp highway. At Namche, the path splits – the righthand track would take you straight to Everest Base Camp and the left is a more scenic route. Early on we had been advised to book the tour that takes the longer scenic route up to Gokyo, then over Cho La Pass, and on to Everest Base Camp – taking us slightly off the beaten track.
- Every day of this trip I struggled ever upwards and considered whether I had really gone insane. It was only in hindsight that I am so glad we opted for the longer, more challenging route. Yes, I realise I truly am insane.
- We can’t believe how lucky we had been with the weather. Every morning we have been waking to the most brilliant blue skies. It’s been warm, almost too warm at times and I have been hiking (as is my habit) in shorts. Today though, even though I would have much preferred to stay in shorts, it was time to revert to trousers. The people of Nepal dress very modestly and, as we were heading into more remote parts, it was appropriate to show respect to the local people by covering up. Not everyone does that, of course.
- Each day the weather follows almost the exact same pattern – crystal clear blue skies with/without a few puffy, white clouds until about 2-3pm when a mountain mist/fog rolls in. Often we walk into camp through thick fog, only to wake up the next morning to the most miraculous mountain views completely surrounding the camp. It is simply spellbinding.
- We started the day with one of the most lung-busting climbs of the whole walk. The track seemed to head almost vertically up the mountainside and it was narrow and rocky. An extra element of challenge was added by the hordes of people still on the trail and wanting to get past. It seemed we were not the only people wishing to avoid the highway.
- I would take my ten steps or so and then try to find a small level patch of ground to step aside and let people pass by. A whole family, including numerous young kids were making quick work of the ascent – almost dancing from rock to step. Ah, to be young again…
- All the puffing and panting was definitely worthwhile today as we were treated to our first real views of Everest. We all nearly broke our cameras/phones taking photos. It is quite deceptive though as the closer mountains look much taller than Mount Everest, but we will just have to take their word that it is definitely the highest mountain in the World.
- Blissfully, the path levelled out for a while as we skirted our way around some mountains to arrive at the Hotel Everest View for a morning tea break. Apparently, this is a popular spot for tourists to helicopter in, see Everest and then fly out again. Maybe they are onto something there…
- And then we actually went downhill to visit Khumjung which is famous for having the first school in the entire Khumbu region. Sir Edmond Hillary and the Himalayan Trust helped build this school back in 1961 and it still operates today. Children will walk many days to the school and then live in the adjacent hostel all school term before walking back to their villages for the school holidays. I can only imagine what a difference education makes to these kids’ lives.
- Khumjung is also home to the Samten Chholing Monastery. We dropped in for a short visit (Rs300pp entrance fee) and presentation by one of the Buddhist monks talking about the history of the site. I love the colour and vibrancy of these monasteries even if I don’t understand all the imagery and icons.
- The monastery is also home to a genuine Yeti skull. You may be sceptical, but the locals are true believers and trot the skull out for community celebrations. 😊
Highlights & Tips:
- It dawned on me last night as I lay in bed, that I couldn’t hear anything! No engines, no cars, no motors, no machines. This is perhaps the first place in the World I have visited where there are no roads in or out, and no cars or other vehicles to drive on them. How rare is that?
- Tonight’s campsite has plenty of tents, many more than our small group requires and that means we get a tent to ourselves! Yay! Not saying that I don’t love The Husband, but two people in a smallish tent with two duffel bags exploding gear everywhere, is definitely not a recipe for domestic harmony. 😊
- Each of the World Expedition campsites have a comfortable common room/dining area and this is heated, if required, by burning yak dung. There is also a place to charge devices and most campsites have WIFI for those wishing to stay connected with the outside world. I didn’t realise that WIFI was so widespread and left all my devices back in Kathmandu. I didn’t miss them at all.
- It is also a comfortable spot to curl up with a book, write in a journal or simply gaze out the window at the magnificent scenery…or fog. One of our Group decided that tents were not for her and, whenever possible, she slept overnight in the common room. Go her!
- A true highlight of today was the mix of terrain, including some level sections and downhill bits. It’s amazing the difference it makes to my ability to get oxygen in and I felt remotely human to be able to step it out a bit. Needless to say, within four steps on any sort of ascent, I am back to puffing and panting again. Oh well, onwards and upwards.
#travelinspo #EverestBaseCamp #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #Nepal #Namche #WorldExpeditions # epicadventures #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #exoticdestinations #publicschools #hikingadventures #Namchebazaar #EverestViewHotel #Everestviews #Sagarmatha #buddhistmonasteries #Everesthighway #SirEdmundHillary
Life...one big adventure 
The photos of Everest are amazing! Seeing the mountain – and, in fact, trekking to base camp – is on my bucket list!
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You would love it. If you are serious, I recommend you book it sooner rather than later as it is big business now and finding patches of solitude are rare.
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I’m taking every step with you. I remember these views, the climbs, the yeti hand. We turned the other way off the main trail after this to do Kongma La so now I’ll be remembering your steps backward to Cho La. Maggie
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Huh? Which direction did you head from there? I don’t remember hearing about that route?
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We did Everest 3 passes, so Kongma, Cho and Renjo as well as Gokyo.
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Was Kongma to the south east of Everest? Connecting to Lobuche?
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Yes. From Dingboche we went east to Chukhung instead of Duglha. After the pass we came out near Lobuche.
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A couple of young women stumbled into our lodge at Lobuche about 8pm. It was pitch black dark and they had got lost on that pass. Very scary
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It was tough, but we didn’t find it difficult route finding. The worst was crossing the Khumbu moraine because it was constant up and down without much progress. The trail was well marked with cairns though.
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Those moraines are unbelievable – almost like a moonscape.
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The snow capped mountains are breathtakingly beautiful … and what an incredible feeling it must have been to see the majestic Mount Everest – wow! The flowers are a surprise to see (one can hardly imagine that they will grow there) … and WiFi! I wonder how many times the locals who live there find their way to Kathmandu (and beyond) – or are they content to just stay there for the rest of their lives?
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I suspect many local people never leave the mountains let alone get to Kathmandu. The only way to leave Lukla is to walk for a couple of days followed by a very long jeep/bus ride or alternatively, a very expensive plane flight. I can’t judge how content they are – they do seem to be hard workers and probably have the same ambitions as all of us.
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Go Mel! You are amazing!
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Girl power, Jo!😁😎
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I can’t believe families with children make that trek. I would not have imagined it. Glad you’re still able to see the beauty all around you. When I was in the mountaineering section of my 2.5-month Outward Bound course, my misery meant I had trouble appreciating it.
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It’s funny how I can see more beauty as soon as I get more breath! 🙂 There weren’t a lot of families with children, but they were about. Maybe their smaller lungs handle it all better/adapt faster?
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The Himalayas are so very beautiful and amazing. Onward!
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It is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful countries ever!
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Full marks for effort, but it looks as though it’s all been worth it. The weather has at least been kind enough to capture some unbelievable views and stunning pictures.
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Yes, we were incredibly lucky with the weather. I couldn’t imagine walking this terrain in the rain or freezing cold.
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I’m taking it all in. Thank you.
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Spellbinding!
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That first view of Everest is fantastic isn’t it! 😀
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It sure is! A lot of fuss for what looks like a small patch of rock and snow, but so beautiful.
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That first view of Everest must have been so exciting, and so glad you had a tiny bit of respite with some flat and downhill sections!
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Yes, it was almost…”Aha, that is what I am doing this for!” 🙂
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Stunning views of Everest and the other mountains 😲 I’m afraid helicoptering in would be much more my style! In fact, we did do a flight over Everest (in a plane) while staying in Kathmandu. A lot lot easier than what you did but not a fraction as rewarding, although we loved it!
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Whatever works! As long as you get to enjoy the beauty of this gobsmacking region, you will be so much richer for the experience.
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That’s something we did too as we tracked in the Annapurnas and it was a quick way to see another part of Nepal.
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Good plan!
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The 8000ers are incredible, aren’t they? Each sighting is something I treasure. Glad to be following your blog
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Coming from a country that has NOTHING like these mountains, each and every one was spell-binding.
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Nothing like a bit of Nepali ‘flat’ to help make the walk a bit easier for a while.
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A very loose definition of ‘flat!😁
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wow, and then the silence that weve never heard before, Its deafening!!
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True. I was even lying in bed last night just listening to the silence…and it wasn’t really silent at all.
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