Date: Tuesday, 7 July 2026
Day: 1
From: St Bees To: Ennerdale Bridge
Start Walking: 822am End Walking: 146pm
Distance (Planned): 22.5km Distance (Garmin): 18.4km
Progress: 18.4/306km
Ascent: 385mm Descent: 303m
Weather: Cloudy all day and humid
Stayed At: The Shepherds Arms Hotel
General Comments:
• Well, today was the day! After a lot of planning, wishing and hoping, we finally laced up our boots and strolled out of St Bees, on England’s West Coast.
• Before heading off though we adhered to tradition and we dipped our toes in the Irish Sea, and picked up a SMALL pebble from the beach to drop into the North Sea…when we finally arrive in 16 days time.
• From the get-go today, we were off the official track as a major landslip has occurred on St Bees headland and the track is closed. That doesn’t stop some people taking the track up and over the headland, and it doesn’t stop some locals telling us that it is an overreaction and we should stick to the original path.
• Again about 13km along the track, we had to divert again as Dent Fell (another stiff hill to climb) was closed due to logging operations.
• Someone upstairs didn’t want us climbing hills today and I can’t say I minded a bit, although I understand we missed out on some spectacular views.
• The trail – both original and diversions – took us over a variety of tracks and terrain. We did more paved-surface walking than I would have liked, but also some tracks across paddocks, public walkways and permissive (I need to check that term) paths where a land owner has given special permission to walk across their fields.
• We went through innumerable fancy gates that allow humans through, but not animals and over a handful of stiles. If I manage to stay upright crossing those stiles all the way to Robin Hood’s Bay, it will be a minor miracle.
• The scenery was consistently beautiful with the typical English patchwork paddocks and everything just so green. Luckily the heat waves the UK has been experiencing of late have not reached this far northwards.
• We met about 6 other walkers on the trail. Some look pretty hardcore with their camping gear, but I suspect the majority take the B&B/luggage-transfer option. It is nice to have some informal chats with these new faces and perhaps there will be the odd beer shared with them too at some stage.
Top Tips:
• Listen to the Locals: It appears that everyone is a Coast to Coast expert and they are happy to share their boundless knowledge of which route or diversion you should take. Even though they say it is ‘perfectly safe’, make up your own mind. You don’t want to be ‘that’ person who causes a lot of hard work for emergency services. 😁
• The flip side of that is that their local intel could save you a few kilometres!
• Raspberries: Who knew that raspberries would be growing wild by the side of the track? We had to navigate some unpleasant stinging nettles, but that wasn’t going to stop us enjoying a second breakfast. Yummo!
• Dogs: If you don’t like dogs, you may want to reconsider this walk. Everyone was out walking their dogs! We would have passed at least 50 different dogs – all unfailingly happy and friendly – as were their owners.
• Signage: The Path is really well signposted, both in quality and quantity. We do have a map app on our phones, but really only checked it when it came to diversions. This made for great walking, allowing us to walk easily and look around enjoying the scenery.
A great first day out on the trail. Tomorrow is going to be our longest day with some serious hills thrown in. I doubt that today’s diversions will be as plentiful or kind!😆
(I apologise in advance if my posts are a bit rough and ready. It may take me a couple of days to get my on-the-trail blogging routine down pat) 😊
Life...one big adventure 
Nothing rough and ready about your posts, Mel. Listening to the locals and making up your own mind is good advice. I would’ve taken the diversion route. Sensible girl 😉 I will interested to know if you come across many solo women doing this walk. Have a good rest and I look forward to the next instalment.
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Thanks, Suz. Yep, met two solo women on the trail and there are others staying in the same hotel. It’s obviously a very safe trail to walk on your own although today is only day 1. What would I know? 😄
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You’ll soon find out won’t you 🙂
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True! 😁
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This immediately brings back so many great memories from our first day four years ago. It’s a shame you missed the cliffs, but there is plenty more over the next 200 miles, with some grand cliffs as the finale just before RHB. I hope you make it!
Our “day 2” is infamous within our group of six who hiked. We started at the Shepherds, the same as you are finishing day 1. The morning was fine, but the weather closed in, which made the afternoon hike over the Honister pass “interesting.” I’m sure you will have fine weather, which will make the views fantastic, albeit perhaps a bit less memorable than our journey…
If you want a prelude to each day, you could read my blogs at: https://cajunlimeys.com/englands-coast-to-coast/. Our “day 2” might be enough at https://cajunlimeys.com/2022/06/28/coast-to-coast-day-2-ennerdale-bridge-to-stonethwaite/.
We head off for three weeks on the South West Coast Path next month. Perhaps Cumbria Way next year, and then the grand LEJOG the following year, maybe?
Good luck, take care, and hug some sheep for us!
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WOW! You have some ambitious hiking plans. I will follow your South West Coast Walk with interest. Fog is forecast for tomorrow here so I am not sure what sort of views we will enjoy, but it will be great regardless! Happy planning. Mel
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Looks like a great start Mel! Maggie
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Yep, a pretty gentle start, all things considered. We’ll see what the next few days bring. Apparently the first 4-5 days are the hardest. An absolute breeze for you pair. 😅
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I’m loving your blog already.
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I think you would enjoy this one, Kay. X
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Off and going, Mel! After a few days in Edinburgh?
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Yep, we had two very full days in Edinburgh which was lovely, but we are very happy to be away from the crowds. It was pretty manic up there even with the ordinary weather. 😉
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Your pictures and descriptions make me want to hike the trail.
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I am glad to have inspired you, but maybe wait to see what the next few days bring before booking your flights! They say the next few days are really tough. 😁
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Maybe in the fall! 😁
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Hmmm, I’m not sure Autumn would be the best time. I understand some of the places we walk measure their rainfall in metres not millimeters!! I hope we miss out on that experience. 🌧🌧
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Yay, another walk! This one looks so nice and green (and hopefully will be less hot than some of your other recent ones). Looking forward to following along with you 🙂
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Thanks, Diana. I am really looking forward to Day 2 and getting back into the walking groove. Enjoy your day.
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Looks wonderful 😊. Enjoy and Good Luck.
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Many thanks. I’ll do my best.
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