Rambling Through Richmond, North Yorkshire and Enjoying Not Being In A Tourist Trap

I like a walk as much as the next person, but after ten days on the Coast to Coast Path across England, I was more than ready to slip off the backpack and put my feet up for a while. As Richmond is the largest town we would come across on the length of the Coast to Coast Path, it was the logical place to pull up stumps for a day or two.

It seems though, that my curiosity and need to explore is greater than my need to rest. I was both curious and ready to learn all about our place of rest.

Join me for a very casual stroll through Richmond’s streets and there is a delicious morning tea to reward us at the end.

What:

• The existence of Richmond was first noted around the 11^th century. Since that time, it has grown into a bustling town of 8,500 people.
• The historic centre of Richmond is where the real attraction can be found and we were definitely not on our own as we wandered the cobbled streets and wynds. ‘Wynd’ describes the quirky lanes that squeeze between buildings and higgledy piggledy links to larger streets.

• Our first port of call was Richmond Castle. The Castle – as most castles are wont to do – has a really colourful history. Not only was it the home and power base of Count Alan Rufus who may have fought at the Battle of Hastings, it was also at one stage the prison for WW1 conscientious objectors and a home for local residents during an inter-war housing crisis.
• Actually, its role as a prison in WW1 gets the most attention with a museum and a large amount of interpretive information, and audiovisual presentations. It was interesting to read/hear their stories and to understand their reasoning behind such a momentous decision – completely bucking social mores and peer pressure of the time.

• The Castle itself is really only a shadow of its former grandeur with most of its buildings and walls crumbled, or remaining as a mere shell. It’s still a fascinating place to visit and sometimes they run free guided tours of the castle precinct. Or you can buy a guidebook for £5.
• Book your tickets online for a discount or entry is free for English Heritage members.

• Another absolute, not-to-be-missed highlight of Richmond is the Georgian Theatre Royal. While a theatre may not be on your must-see list of things to do, this one first opened its doors in 1788 and is the oldest operational performing arts theatre in the United Kingdom.
• Guided tours operate daily and I highly recommend you sign up (£8). Conducted by passionate volunteers, the tours take you all through the old building, a small museum area, back stage, and beneath the stage. The tour really brings the history and vibrancy of this historic building to life.

• It’s hard to believe this gem has survived for 238years after threats of demolition, developers and the ever-present real risk of fire. Thank goodness a few visionary people lobbied for its preservation and restoration.
• An interesting fact that tickled my fancy, is that today the Theatre seats around 140 people. In its heyday, well before rampant regulation and compliance requirements, the proprietors would cram around 400 people into the same space! Can you imagine the smell of all those unwashed bodies, the noise, the smoke and suffocating heat of too many people in too small a space? It doesn’t really bear thinking about. 😊

• And, after all that history, we had to reward ourselves with a substantial morning tea. My Partner-In-Crime was hankering for a cream tea and any cake is a good cake in my book. Needless to say, we didn’t need lunch. Pop into the Little Drummer Boy Tearoom for a sumptuous snack. You won’t be disappointed.
• There is a lot more to see in Richmond, but considering it was our rest day we limited ourselves to two main sites/sights.

Where:

• Richmond is located about 75km north-west of York.
• The historic centre of Richmond, including the large market square, is where the main action and interest is found.

When:

• A visit to Richmond would be enjoyable at any time of year.
• To avoid the worst of the crowds at the Castle (and they are really not all that bad and certainly not on par with Edinburgh Castle), I suggest you turn up at opening time (10am).
• The Georgian Theatre Royal runs a number of tours each day at set times. Book early to avoid disappointment.

Why:

• Richmond is the perfect place to explore on foot. Its laid-back vibe means you can amble about absorbing as little or as much history as you would like.
• It’s the perfect spot to break for a rest day if you are walking the Coast to Coast Path as there are plenty of shops for resupply and service provider such as podiatrists. 😊

How:

• I know I am biased, but the best way to explore Richmond is on foot.
• The Tourist Office offers free guided walking tours three days per week and unfortunately, we were not there on one of these days.
• Alternatively, collect a self-guided tour map and explore at your own pace. Most of the old buildings have interpretive signage too.

Who:

• Richmond is a very old town with some steep streets of uneven surfaces, including cobblestones. This may be a challenge for people with serious mobility issues.
• You can drive into the main square and park (paid) for closer access to the Castle and the Theatre.
• Even with its low-key friendly vibe mentioned above, Richmond is a popular destination and, after wandering along the quiet country trails of the Coast to Coast Path for 10 days, we were quite surprised by the number of people poking about. We were delighted to meet up with some other walkers we hadn’t seen since earlier in the walk though, and hear of their experiences. There is a lovely comraderie on the Coast to Coast Path.

I feel we really only scratched the surface of Richmond’s attractions and we could have spent a least one more day there. For a more detailed review of Richmond, have a look at the Glasgow Gallivanter. She really enjoyed every aspect of this town and the broader region. And Jo is always a great walking companion too.

After two days of sleeping in the same bed and with a full complement of clean clothes, the trail was calling our names again and there nothing for it, but to hoist our backpacks and head further eastwards.

Have you been to any Richmonds? Apparently, there are over 105 places called Richmond across the World.

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